L'Artisan has two other fragrances that use dried fruit, √l Oudh' and Traversee du Bosphore', and more than that which highlight vetiver, and several with the Tea for Two' notes. Vetiver is usually paired with wood, herbs or citrus. Thumbs upĪ Vetiver fragrance that isn't vetiver-centric' yet somehow manages to use the vetiver to achieve a spiritual space. If you can afford seeking a bottle and like pleasant oddities, Coeur de Vétiver Sacré certainly won't be a disappointing acquisition. I really wish it was still the case with the brand but time sadly marches on, and as I alluded too earlier in the review, things will get much worse before they get better. Once again though, a vetiver fragrance that really isn't about vetiver is something somewhat doomed to be an obscure cult sort of shindig in the first place, although that's hardly unusual with a brand like L'Artisan Parfumeur. Open-minded folks who love that "golden era" 90's and 00's niche will of course enjoy Coeur de Vétiver Sacré as being a release right at the tail-end of the era, before brands like Byredo and Parfums de Marly set the new, slicker and more-commercial standard for the niche market. Seems it would hardly matter now, with this hitting the firing squad alongside a disturbing number of L'Artisan greats as owner Puig hollows it out into just another shallow fragrant bauble to fill the vanities of the detached haute-bourgeois, much as they did with Penhaligon's. Guys into vetiver will expect more of the nutgrass itself to turn up with its rooty/nutty/smoky qualities they've come to love in things like Guerlain Vetiver (1961), so they might not be so keen to a fruity floral near-chypre presentation coded as a vetiver fragrance. Best use is probably spring although summer isn't out of the question either.Īs for who can wear Coeur de Vétiver Sacré, I'd say most likely women will enjoy this one, particularly because of the fruit and vanilla tones. Performance is perhaps another big ding on Coeur de Vétiver Sacré, as a lot of people claim poor performance when wearing it, although I don't think a fragrance with such a gentle blending is meant to rustle anyone's jimmies to begin with, although that's just me. In this case though, the material is actually there not just compiled from adjacent materials into a shambling horror that doesn't really resemble it, as with most Le Labo fragrances. Some folks may go "oh isn't that what Le Labo does?" and yes, I suppose it is. Vetiver plays a surprisingly small role in Coeur de Vétiver Sacré, so small you may actually miss it and wonder how this is a vetiver fragrance at all. Osmanthus, iris, violet leaf, and rose comprise the heart, while a mix of cedar, labdanum, and sandalwood notes lay over the aforementioned tonka and vanilla in the base. The spices here are smooth and not of the piquant variety, with some vanilla to smooth it all out. In execution, this means notes like orange rind, dates, and fig come forward in the opening, alongside a black tea note and some spices. But as we suffer another world-destroying Gilded Age, these things will happen regardless until the erosion to society's pillar classes causes collapse of it all, should the Earth still be habitable by then.īack to the fragrance however and for the folks out there who somehow have the Bohemian taste to appreciate artistic perfumes while also having the fiduciary means to purchase niche perfumes in the first place, you'll find an assemblage of dried fruits and incense piled on top of a soft woody-vetiver base with a fruity-floral chypre template. Anything like Coeur de Vétiver Sacré that could be found divisive or challenging in the least to the mush-brained, porcelain-egoed, tech and finance sector nouveau-riche customer base these brands started to court, simply had to be phased out in favor of another rose c02 cashmeran bomb or gummy-sweet amber, pity. For the most part, the decline in the availability of L'Artisan's innovative classics and indeed their output also somewhat coincides with the decline in the very same from Serge Lutens as well, since it seems around 2010 is when most of the niche perfume market was overtaken by corporate luxury conglomerates and then subverted into just a higher-priced tier of designer-like fragrances. On its own, this fragrance by Karine Vinchon-Spehner is a vetiver fragrance not solely about vetiver, which confused a lot of vetiver fans to be sure, while also gaining a cult following from general perfume lovers into the house. Coeur de Vétiver Sacré by L'Artisan Parfumeur (2010) was a pretty interesting perfume and sadly that "was an interesting perfume" is becoming more and more the trend with this house, as they discontinue anything of artistic value that helped uphold the brand's reputation as a true niche pioneer, but I digress.
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